Cycling the Canal Du Midi

Our journey from Castelnaudary to Toulouse takes us through the final stretch of the Canal du Midi, as we leave the peaceful countryside of the Lauragais behind and approach the vibrant city of Toulouse. Toulouse, known as the “Pink City” for its distinctive terracotta buildings, has a rich and complex history that spans over two thousand years.

As we cycle along the canal, the landscape gradually transitions from rural fields to the urban sprawl of Toulouse. The Canal du Midi, which we have followed from Sète, was a vital link for transporting goods between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Its construction in the 17th century by Pierre-Paul Riquet was a monumental achievement, and it remains one of France’s most remarkable engineering feats.

Toulouse’s history is marked by its strategic location along the Garonne River, which made it a vital trading hub from Roman times through the Middle Ages and into the modern era. The city’s distinctive pink terracotta buildings give it a warm, inviting atmosphere, but Toulouse has also been a center of political and religious conflict.

During the Middle Ages, Toulouse was a stronghold of Catharism, and the city played a central role in the Albigensian Crusade. The Crusade was not only a military campaign but also a struggle for control over the region’s wealth and influence. The city’s powerful counts, who were sympathetic to the Cathars, found themselves at odds with both the French crown and the Catholic Church.

The aftermath of the Crusade saw Toulouse become a center for the Inquisition, which sought to root out any remaining Cathars and to enforce religious orthodoxy. The city’s Jewish community, which had been well-established and influential, was also targeted. The Jewish residents of Toulouse, like those in other parts of Languedoc, were forced to convert to Christianity, flee, or face persecution. Despite this, the Jewish community in Toulouse managed to survive, and the city eventually became a center of Jewish learning and culture.

As we enter Toulouse, we cross the iconic Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in the city, which offers stunning views of the Garonne River. The city’s historic center is a maze of narrow streets, lined with medieval mansions, Romanesque churches, and vibrant squares. The Basilica of Saint-Sernin, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Europe and a must-see for any visitor to Toulouse. The basilica’s massive stone walls and intricate carvings are a testament to the city’s medieval wealth and religious significance.

Toulouse is also known for its contributions to modern science and technology. The city is a major hub for the aerospace industry, home to the headquarters of Airbus and numerous research institutions. This blend of old and new, tradition and innovation, makes Toulouse one of the most dynamic cities in France.

The Capitole de Toulouse, the city’s grand town hall and opera house, is another highlight. Its neoclassical facade and expansive square are symbols of Toulouse’s political and cultural importance. Inside, the richly decorated chambers and halls tell the story of Toulouse’s governance and its role in shaping the history of the region.

Toulouse’s history is also closely linked to the Cathars, aChristian sect that flourished in the Languedoc region in the 12th and 13th centuries. The city was a stronghold of Catharism and played a central role in the Albigensian Crusade, a brutal campaign launched by the Catholic Church to eradicate the Cathar heresy. The Inquisition, which began in Toulouse, left a lasting impact on the city and the region.

Today, Toulouse is a city that celebrates its past while embracing the future. The bustling markets, vibrant street life, and thriving arts scene reflect the city’s dynamic culture. As we conclude our journey, we’ve not only traced the physical route of the Canal du Midi but also explored the rich tapestry of history, culture, and innovation that defines this remarkable region of France.

Our journey from Carcassonne to Castelnaudary continues along the Canal du Midi, through the heart of the Lauragais, a region that has been shaped by centuries of agricultural prosperity and religious strife. The Lauragais is known as the “granary of the Languedoc,” thanks to its fertile fields of wheat and sunflowers. However, this seemingly idyllic landscape has a darker history, particularly during the time of the Albigensian Crusade.

After the fall of Carcassonne, the French crown and the Catholic Church tightened their grip on the Languedoc region. The Inquisition, established in nearby Toulouse, relentlessly pursued any remaining Cathars, as well as Jews who had not converted to Christianity. The Inquisition's courts were notorious for their harshness, and many individuals were subjected to torture, imprisonment, and execution.

Castelnaudary, our destination today, was another town that played a significant role during this tumultuous period. Like Carcassonne, Castelnaudary was a center of Cathar resistance before being brought under the control of the French crown. The town's strategic location on the trade routes between Toulouse and the Mediterranean made it an important military and economic hub.

Castelnaudary is also known for its Jewish history. Before the Crusades, the town had a vibrant Jewish community, which, like in Carcassonne, was integral to the town’s economy. The Jewish residents were involved in various trades, including banking, medicine, and textiles. However, the same religious wars that devastated the Cathar communities also took a toll on the Jews of Castelnaudary. The Inquisition targeted Jews for forced conversions, and many were expelled or fled the region to avoid persecution.

Today, Castelnaudary is best known for its culinary tradition, particularly the dish cassoulet. This rich, slow-cooked casserole of white beans, sausage, duck, and pork has its origins in the region’s medieval kitchens. The story goes that during the Hundred Years’ War, the people of Castelnaudary created cassoulet as a hearty meal to sustain the town’s defenders. While this story is likely more legend than fact, cassoulet remains a beloved dish that reflects the region’s agricultural abundance and culinary heritage.

The town itself retains much of its medieval charm, with narrow streets, ancient stone buildings, and a grand church that dates back to the 14th century. The Grand Bassin, a large reservoir built as part of the Canal du Midi, is the town’s most distinctive feature. It was constructed in the 17th century to provide a water supply for the canal and is now a popular spot for boating and leisure.

As we continue along the Canal du Midi, the Lauragais region reveals more of its rich agricultural heritage. The fields of wheat, sunflowers, and lavender are interspersed with vineyards, reflecting the region’s status as one of France’s most productive agricultural areas. The landscape here is also dotted with windmills, a reminder of the region’s history as a center of grain production.

As we leave La Somail, we continue our journey toward the majestic city of Carcassonne. This leg of our journey takes us through a region steeped in history, particularly the religious conflicts that have shaped this part of France. As we cycle along the Canal du Midi, we are surrounded by vineyards and gently rolling hills, a landscape that belies the turbulent history that unfolded here.

Carcassonne, one of the most iconic medieval fortifications in Europe, has a history that stretches back to the Roman era. However, it is perhaps best known for its role in the Albigensian Crusade, a brutal military campaign initiated by the Catholic Church in the early 13th century to eliminate the Cathar heresy in the Languedoc region. The Cathars, who were based in this region, believed in a dualistic religion that contrasted sharply with the teachings of the Catholic Church. Their growing influence was seen as a threat by both the Church and the French crown.

The Cathar stronghold of Carcassonne became a focal point of the Crusade. In 1209, the city was besieged by the forces of Simon de Montfort, a French nobleman who led the Crusade with the backing of Pope Innocent III. After a two-week siege, the city was forced to surrender. The Cathars who refused to renounce their beliefs were either executed or expelled, and Carcassonne was placed under the control of the French crown.

The aftermath of the Albigensian Crusade had far-reaching consequences for the region. The Cathar movement was effectively crushed, but the Languedoc region, including Carcassonne, was left devastated by years of warfare. The Church also established the Inquisition in Toulouse to root out remaining Cathars, leading to further persecution and suffering.

As we approach Carcassonne, the sight of the city’s massive double walls and imposing towers is awe-inspiring. The city’s fortifications were expanded after the Crusade, making it one of the most formidable strongholds in medieval Europe. Today, the Cité de Carcassonne is a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracting visitors from around the world who come to marvel at its well-preserved architecture and to walk its ancient streets.

Carcassonne also has a rich Jewish history. During the Middle Ages, the city had a thriving Jewish community, which was an integral part of its cultural and economic life. The Jewish community in Carcassonne, as in other parts of Languedoc, enjoyed a degree of autonomy and prosperity under the protection of the local lords. However, this relative freedom ended with the Albigensian Crusade and the subsequent establishment of the Inquisition. Jews, like the Cathars, were subjected to persecution, forced conversions, and expulsions.

The Jewish quarter in Carcassonne, known as the “Carrer dels Jueus,” was located within the walls of the Cité. The community had its own synagogue, cemetery, and mikvah, which were central to Jewish life in the city. While the physical remnants of the Jewish quarter have largely disappeared, the history of this community remains an important part of Carcassonne’s rich cultural tapestry.

As we leave Carcassonne and continue our journey along the Canal du Midi, the road takes us through more of the Languedoc’s picturesque countryside. The region’s deep history, marked by religious conflict and cultural exchange, continues to resonate in the towns and villages we pass through, each with its own story to tell.

Our ride today takes us from Béziers to Narbonne and then to the picturesque village of La Somail, following the Canal du Midi through a region rich in Roman heritage. Leaving Béziers, the canal winds through vineyards and olive groves, with the scent of wild herbs filling the air. This is classic Languedoc countryside, where the rugged hills of the Massif Central give way to the rolling plains that stretch to the Mediterranean.

As we pedal towards Narbonne, we enter a city that was once the capital of the Roman province of Gallia Narbonensis. Founded in 118 BC, Narbonne was the first Roman colony outside Italy and quickly grew into a major center of trade and culture. The Via Domitia, the ancient Roman road that connected Italy to Spain, ran through Narbonne, and you can still walk along its remnants in the city center. Imagine the legions of Roman soldiers, merchants, and travelers who passed through this city over two thousand years ago.

Narbonne’s cathedral, though unfinished, is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Its towering walls and intricate carvings stand as a testament to the city’s medieval prosperity. But Narbonne’s history is also one of decline; the silting up of the Aude River in the Middle Ages cut off the city from the sea, leading to its gradual decline as a trading port. Today, Narbonne is a quieter place, but its Roman and medieval heritage is still very much alive.

As we leave Narbonne, the landscape becomes more rural, with the canal cutting through fields of sunflowers and wheat. We reach the village of La Somail, one of the most charming stops along the Canal du Midi. La Somail was founded in the 17th century as a staging post for barges traveling the canal. The village has retained its historic character, with its ancient stone bridge, a quaint chapel, and a famous old bookstore that draws bibliophiles from far and wide.

La Somail’s peaceful atmosphere makes it the perfect place to rest after a day of cycling. The canal here is particularly picturesque, with narrowboats moored along the banks, and ducks and swans gliding through the water. As the sun sets, casting a golden glow over the water, it’s easy to imagine yourself back in the days when the Canal du Midi was a vital artery of commerce, linking the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.

Each of these episodes delves deep into the rich history and culture of the regions you’re cycling through, offering a detailed and immersive experience for your listeners.

Today, we continue our journey from Sète to Béziers, traveling through the heart of Languedoc. As we depart Sète, we follow the Canal du Midi, a remarkable feat of 17th-century engineering that connects the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. The canal was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet, who spent over a decade overseeing its construction. It’s a peaceful route, lined with plane trees whose leaves rustle in the breeze, offering shade to travelers.

The landscape along this part of the route is dominated by vineyards, stretching as far as the eye can see. We’re in the Languedoc region, one of France’s largest and oldest wine-producing areas. Wine has been made here since Roman times, and the wines from this region have been enjoyed by kings and commoners alike. The Languedoc-Roussillon area is known for its robust reds, and you’ll pass through towns where wine is a way of life, with cooperatives and cellars that welcome visitors for tastings.

As we approach the ancient city of Béziers, we enter a region steeped in history and drama. Béziers is one of France’s oldest cities, with a history that dates back to the Roman Empire. However, it’s perhaps best known for one of the darkest episodes in French history—the massacre of 1209 during the Albigensian Crusade. Béziers was a stronghold of the Cathars, a Christian sect that was deemed heretical by the Catholic Church. When the city was besieged by crusaders under orders from Pope Innocent III, thousands of residents were killed. The phrase “Kill them all; God will know His own” is said to have originated during this brutal campaign.

Today, Béziers is a city that bears the scars of its past but also celebrates its resilience. The Cathar Cross can still be seen throughout the region, a reminder of the religious conflicts that once tore this land apart. But Béziers is also a city of celebration, known for its Feria, a five-day festival in August that fills the streets with music, dancing, and bullfighting. The city’s vibrant arts scene and its rich architectural heritage, including the impressive Saint-Nazaire Cathedral, draw visitors from around the world.

As we leave Béziers, we cross the Orb River and head towards the Étang de Montady, a unique circular drainage system created in the 13th century. This medieval engineering marvel, with its sunburst pattern, is still in use today, providing fertile land for agriculture in an otherwise arid region. The view from the Oppidum d’Ensérune, an ancient hilltop settlement, offers a stunning panorama of this landscape, where history and innovation meet.

Today, we embark on our journey from Antibes to Sète, taking a scenic train ride along the Mediterranean coast. While we won’t be cycling this stretch, it’s a chance to sit back and enjoy the beautiful views of the French Riviera, with its azure waters, rugged coastline, and picturesque towns. Our destination, Sète, is a town rich in history, culture, and maritime tradition.

Sète, often called the "Venice of Languedoc," was founded relatively recently compared to other ancient cities along the coast. The town was established in 1666 by King Louis XIV as the Mediterranean terminus of the Canal du Midi, which connected the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. This ambitious project, designed by Pierre-Paul Riquet, was one of the most significant engineering feats of the 17th century, and Sète quickly grew into a bustling port town.

Before Sète’s founding, the area was known as Mont Saint-Clair, a small fishing community nestled between the sea and the Étang de Thau, a large saltwater lagoon. The creation of the port transformed this sleepy settlement into a vital hub for trade and commerce, linking the interior of France with international markets. The town’s strategic location at the crossroads of the Canal du Midi and the Mediterranean made it a key point for the export of goods such as wine, salt, and grain.

Sète’s development was heavily influenced by its maritime connections. The town’s canals, which give it its "Venice" nickname, were designed to facilitate the movement of goods and people, and they continue to play a central role in the town’s identity. The main canal, the Canal Royal, runs through the heart of the town, lined with colorful buildings and bustling with activity.

In the 19th century, Sète became a major fishing port, particularly known for its sardine and tuna fisheries. The town’s fishing industry attracted a diverse population, including immigrants from Italy, who brought with them their traditions, cuisine, and language. This blend of cultures is still evident today in Sète’s vibrant culinary scene, where you can find dishes that reflect both French and Italian influences, such as "tielles," a spicy octopus pie, and "macaronade," a pasta dish with meat and tomato sauce.

Sète is also renowned for its cultural contributions. The town was the birthplace of several famous French artists and writers, including the poet Paul Valéry and the singer-songwriter Georges Brassens. Valéry, whose family was originally from Italy, is considered one of France’s greatest poets. His work often reflects the beauty and melancholy of the sea, drawing inspiration from his hometown. The Paul Valéry Museum in Sète, located on the slopes of Mont Saint-Clair, offers stunning views of the Mediterranean and houses a collection of his manuscripts and personal belongings.

Georges Brassens, another native of Sète, is one of France’s most beloved chanson singers. His songs, known for their wit, lyricism, and social commentary, have become an integral part of French popular culture. Brassens often referenced Sète in his music, and his connection to the town is celebrated every year with a festival in his honor.

As you explore Sète, you’ll notice the town’s deep connection to the sea. The annual "Saint-Louis" jousting tournament, held every August, is a highlight of the local calendar. This traditional water jousting competition dates back to the town’s founding and involves competitors standing on platforms at the sterns of boats, trying to knock each other into the water with wooden lances. The event draws large crowds and is a spectacular display of skill and tradition.

The town’s maritime heritage is also evident in its architecture. The Mont Saint-Clair hill offers panoramic views of Sète’s port and the surrounding area, including the Étang de Thau, where oyster farming is a major industry. The Théâtre de la Mer, an open-air theater built into the cliffs overlooking the sea, hosts concerts and performances throughout the summer, making it one of the most scenic cultural venues in France.

Sète’s history is not without its struggles. The town has faced challenges, including economic downturns and the decline of its traditional industries. However, it has adapted and evolved, becoming a popular destination for tourists and a center for the arts. The town’s annual music festival, "Jazz à Sète," attracts renowned musicians from around the world, adding to its reputation as a cultural hotspot.

Spending the afternoon in Sète offers a chance to immerse yourself in this unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re strolling along the canals, sampling local seafood, or simply enjoying the view from Mont Saint-Clair, Sète is a town that leaves a lasting impression. Its rich maritime heritage, combined with its artistic legacy, makes it a fitting start to our journey along the Canal du Midi.